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Travel Guides: Seville
General Information
Spain's great southern city of Seville has a romantic past and a rich Moorish heritage. The city is the regional capital of Andalucia, which contains the densely populated beach resorts of the Costa del Sol along its southern reaches, and the mountain villages of the Sierra Nevada range further inland, about 25 miles (40km) from the coast.
Seville has an impressive collection of historical sights, including its Cathedral, which is the largest Gothic building in the world. Having been occupied by the Moors for 500 years, the city also has a legacy left by the Arab kings in the form of the Alcazar, a palace-fortress that is regarded as one of the finest existing examples of Moorish architecture.
It is the perfect setting for high culture and romantic operas like Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro, while the poet Byron however rated Seville for its women and oranges. Modern visitors might add flamenco, tapas and bull fighting to the list. The soul of the city is best epitomised during its two passion-filled grand festivals, the Semana Santa, held the week before Easter, and the Feria de Abril, held two weeks after Easter Sunday.
The area around Seville itself does not provide much in the way of tourist attractions, except for the rural villages of the Sierra Morena to the north, which offer some perfect walking trails between the modest mountain peaks, particularly in spring when the area is carpeted with wild flowers.
Getting Around
Most of the tourist sights in Seville are in the central area, which is flat, and are best explored on foot. Those travelling further afield will find buses the easiest and most economical way of getting around. Bus stops are easy to find on the main avenues and run on circular routes around the city, and line routes in all directions out of it. Bus routes emanate from Plaza Nueva, Plaza de la Encarnacion, La Barqueta and Prado de San Sebastian. Taxis can be found at designated stands in all the main plazas, or can be hailed on the street if showing a green light, which means they are available. Avoid driving in Seville as roads are confusing and hard to negotiate.
Activities
Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes de Sevilla, Seville
A restored convent, dating back to 1612 and hidden in a tiny plaza off Calle de Alfonso XII in Seville, houses one of Spain's most important art collections. Highlights here are the religious paintings of Seville's own Esteban Murillo, but the collection also includes other Seville School artists such as the macabre works of Juan de Vales Leal and Francisco de Zurbaran. There are also two paintings by El Greco among the exhibits.
Opening Times:
Tuesday from 3pm to 8pm; Wednesday to Saturday from
9am to 8pm; Sunday from 9am to 2pm
Admission:
EUR1.50
Santa Cruz, Seville
Visitors usually need to visit a tourist office to obtain a detailed map of the winding alleys, gateways and courtyards of this enchanting and fascinating section of Seville, a former Jewish ghetto, where every street corner has a romantic legend attached to it. The balconies and windowsills are all festooned with flowers and the fragrance of jasmine pervades the air in this picturesque corner of the city, which can be reached via the Calle Rodrigo Caro. Some of the sights to look for are the Hospital de los Venerables, which contains Sevillian art works; the beautiful mansions in the Calle Lope de Rueda; the Convent de San Jose, which boasts relics of Saint Teresa of Avila; and the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Blanca, which features Murillo's 'Last Supper'.
Alcázar of Seville, Seville
The site of Seville's Moorish Alcazar palace has been occupied by the city's rulers since Roman times, and has been a favoured residence of Spanish kings since the Middle Ages. The palace was built by the Moors in the 7th century, and has been added to and altered by successive occupants ever since. First to enlarge the building was the infamous al-Mu'tadid of the Abbadids, who reputedly kept a harem of 800 women and decorated the terraces with flowers planted in the skulls of his decapitated enemies. Of the early Christian additions most notable is the colonnaded quadrangle of the Patio of the Maids. The golden-domed Salon de los Embajadores was a wing built by Fernando and Isabel, and was where the royal pair welcomed Columbus back after his discovery of America. The palace is set in beautiful gardens.
Opening Times:
Tuesday to Saturday 9.30am to 7pm, Sunday 9.30am to
5pm
Admission:
EUR5
Seville Cathedral, Seville
As a monument to Christian glory, Seville's cathedral has few equals, in fact it is still undecided whether it is the largest church in the world when measured against St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London. This massive Gothic edifice took more than a century to build, after a group of religious fanatics decided in 1401 to build a church so wonderful that 'those who come after us will take us for madmen'. The cathedral was built on the site of the Almohad mosque, which was demolished to make way for it, leaving no more than the minaret, built in 1198, known as La Giralda, which is today open to tourists to climb. The interior of the cathedral contains some marvellous sights in its 44 chapels, including mahogany choir stalls made from recycled Austrian railway sleepers. It is claimed that Christopher Columbus' remains are here in a tomb dedicated to him, but there is some controversy over this. Artworks to be seen include gilded panels, glittering icons, and intricately carved altarpieces.
Opening Times:
Daily from 9.30am to 4.30pm (July and August); rest
of the year Monday to Saturday from 11am to 5pm, and Sunday from
2.30pm to 6pm
Admission:
EUR8
Gibraltar, Seville
This large lump of limestone stuck to the end of the Iberian Peninsula is as famous for its bizarre geology as it is for its overly-friendly furry friends. Though many countries have claimed the beacon over the years, it's officially owned by the British government and thus it is advised that tourists exchange Euros for Pounds here for ease and economy. The Rock of Gibraltar is easily conquered by cable car, but it's worthwhile to hire a guide (around 25 USD per person) to explain the countless caves and mites, and to coax the wild monkeys to give a toothy grin while atop your head. On clear days visitors can even view North Africa.
Getting There:
About two hours from Seville by car
Admission:
Cable Car Adult Return Ticket: £8 or EUR13.50; Cable Car
and Nature Reserve Adult Return Ticket : £16 or
EUR26.50
Ronda, Seville
Credited both as the birthplace of bullfighting and the home of one of Spain's great architectural feats, Ronda is an easy and entertaining escape from the city. Ambling about the cobbled streets, handsome mansions and well-established artisan boutiques is enough to fill a day, but no visit would be complete without a trip to the beautiful old bull ring and Ronda's most famous attraction, the Puento Nueveo(The New Bridge). The structure straddles a magnificent chasm and connects the old town to the new, while allowing visitors a vista of the region unfolding around them.
Opening Times:
2 hours from Seville by car
Admission:
No admission to view and traverse the Puento Nueveo;
EUR6 to go into the bullring.
Torre del Oro, Seville
The 'tower of gold', overlooking the Guadalquivir River, was part of the original Moorish city fortification, built in the 13th century, and is believed to have been covered with gold tiles imported from the Americas. The tower has been restored and now houses a maritime museum, which contains drawings and engravings depicting Seville in its heyday.
Opening Times:
Tuesday to Friday from 10am to 2pm; weekends from
11am to 2pm
Maria Luisa Park, Seville
Regarded as one of the loveliest parks in Europe, this half-mile area in southern Seville, near the port, is planted with palms, orange trees, elms and Mediterranean pines. Bright and beautiful flower beds vie for the eye with hidden bowers, ponds and pavilions in this little paradise, which was designed in the 1920s and thus reflects a mix of Art Deco and Mudejar styling. The park was originally part of Seville's World Expo, which brought a burst of building and rejuvenation during the 1920s, and which included the re-direction of the Guadalquivir River and the construction of some opulent buildings, like the stylish Guatemala building off the Paseo de la Palmera. Also fronting the park is the city's archaeological museum, focusing on the Romans and prehistory of the province of Seville. Near the park is the Royal Tobacco Factory (today part of the university), immortalised by the fictional operatic gypsy heroine Carmen, who is said to have worked there.
Sherry Bodegas, Seville
Andalusia's chalky soil is ideal for the cultivation of the palomino grape, from which the world-famous sherry ( jerez) of the region is made. The main sites of sherry production in Andalusia are Jerez de la Frontera and Montilla, and these charming towns are home to plenty of self-proclaimed sherry connoisseurs, who will debate the quality of the sweet amber-coloured blends with the seriousness of appraising the finest French wines. An increasingly popular tourist activity for visitors to southern Spain is to tour the bodegasof the region, wineries with a history dating back to Roman times, and which specialise in the fermentation of palomino grapes and the production of sherry. Tasting tours of these bodegasare fun and informative, and - especially in the case of Jerez de la Frontera - can be combined with other great cultural sights, such as checking out a flamenco dance performance, or admiring beautiful Andalusian horses at a dressage event. A bottle of Andalusian sherry makes for a great Spanish souvenir for friends and family back home: visit the bodega of Pedro Domecq and pick up a bottle of their amontilladovariety.
Restaurants
Barbiana
Seafood specialities have buoyed Barbiana to regular appearances on any of Seville's top restaurant listings. Though the city is inland, the chefs go out of their way to source a fresh selection of succulent shrimp, squid, sea bass and white fish all the way from the coastal town of Cadiz. The restaurant is set in the heart of Seville, adjacent to the Plaza Neuve. Those pressed for time can enjoy an abbreviated version of the menu at the tapas bar in front.
Address:
Calle Albaredo 11
Egana Oriza
Situated in a bright and airy mansion dating back to 1926, this stylish space allows guests the opportunity to dine in the equivalent of a contemporary indoor garden. The restaurant was once credited with a Michelin star, though nowadays, tapas and drinks are just as much an occasion as haute cuisine. Visitors can look forward to a fantastic wine list and very knowledgeable sommelier. Closed Sundays. Lunch is served 1:30pm to 4pm; dinner from 8:30pm to midnight.
Address:
San Fernando 41
Restaurante San Marco
Styled to appear as a 12th-century Arab bath house, the lively atmosphere and delicious Italian cuisine make this a favourite among both locals and tourists. This particular venue is tucked away among the winding alleyways of Barrio Santa Cruz, but three other options - each uniquely designed - appear in different areas of the city. Reservations are crucial. Dinner is served from 8pm until midnight.
Address:
Calle Meson del Moro
El Rinconcillo
Moorish brickwork, a handsome mahogany bar and a ceiling that dates back to the seventeenth century give El Rinconcillo the kind of old-world charm that other restaurants merely aspire to. As one of the most famous tapas bars in the city, the venue not only claims a rich history, but also remains true to its Andalusian roots and the accompanying relaxed regional demeanour. Visitors can enjoy a full meal or a few light tapas portions. Open Thursday to Tuesday, 1pm to 2am.
Address:
C/Gerona 40 y Alhondigo 2
Az-Zait
Classically Mediterranean and reasonably priced, Az-Zait is your affordable answer to lunch and dinner. Set next to the Convent of San Lorenzo, the restaurant is comfortable, the service good and the cuisine reliable. The menu offers both Andalusian favourites (gazpacho) and more inventive options, like the honey-glazed cuttlefish. There is also a tasting menu available. Lunch is served from 11am to 4:30pm, and dinner from 8pm to 12:30am.
Address:
Plaza San Lorenzo 1
Corral Del Rey
A modern and minimalist restaurant set within a delicately restored boutique hotel featuring typically European cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. The monochrome styling of the venue may initially seem strange against age-old tapestries and Roman marble columns, but the Anglo-Iberian owners responsible for the odd partnership have somehow made it work. The octopus carpaccio and the stewed veal cheeks are delicious. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8pm until late.
Address:
Corral Del Rey 12
La Albahaca
La Albahaca is as exquisite as its clientèle - a list that once included the King and Queen of Spain and the handsome Charlton Heston. This lavishly decorated Andalusian mansion is split into separate and intimate dining areas where guests can enjoy inventive dishes and a graceful ambience. The food is as impressive as the opulent environment; the veal sirloin with a fresh goose liver and red wine jus is a firm favourite, though you won't stray too far from something delicious with the wild boar or the roasted pheasant breast.
Address:
Plaza Santa Cruz 12



