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Travel Guides: Bilbao
General Information
The industrial port-city of Bilbao is the political capital of the nationalistic Basque people, who inhabit Spain's three northern provinces (an area known collectively as Euskadi). The city is not beautiful - the buildings are soot-stained and the Nervion River running through it is one of Spain's most polluted waterways - but Bilbao does have some surprises to offer visitors, and there are plenty of attractions in the surrounding countryside and around the coast on the Bay of Biscay, which can be easily reached on excursions by rail or road.
The main attraction in the city is the controversial Guggenheim Museum, relatively new on the scene, having been opened in 1997. The city fathers regard this avant-garde building as the beginning of Bilbao' revitalisation, which has also recently acquired a new metro system and airport terminal. Bilbao has some good beaches and a few scenic spots - a favoured picnic site is on Monte Archanda, north of the old town, accessible by funicular. Of the beaches Getxo is the favourite, particularly with surfers, and features a 100-year-old suspension bridge and some lively bars and nightclubs.
Getting Around
Bilbao has an efficient underground metro service covering numerous destinations in the city between 6am and 11pm (earlier on Fridays), ticketed on a zone system. There is also a bus service, as well as a tram service, covering the city and taxis are freely available. Cars and bicycles are also available for hire.
Activities
Bilbao City Hall, Bilbao
Bilbao's elegant city hall in the Plaza Erkoreka Ernesto dates from 1892 and was designed by Joaquin Rucoba, with a spire and a magnificent façade featuring balconies, columns and a sweeping staircase. The highlight of the interior is the 'Arab Room', an opulently decorated chamber used for civil marriage ceremonies. Guided tours, lasting about an hour are available, though these need to be booked in advance by phone.
Museo Vasco, Bilbao
The Museo Vasco, also known as the Euskal Museoa or Basque Museum, is in the heart of the old quarter of the city, housed in a 17th century Jesuit cloister. The museum depicts Basque culture, history and ethnology, and its exhibits span a wide range of interests including weaving, the blacksmith trade, pastoral life and maritime matters. The displays offer the chance to dip into Basque political and social life, using everything from model ships to reconstructions of rooms and gravestones to guide the visitor along. Budget at least three hours to take it all in.
Opening Times:
Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 5pm, Sundays from
11am to 2pm
Admission:
EUR3, with concessions available. Free for children
under 10 and senior citizens
Museo de Bellas Artes, Bilbao
For a more mainstream artistic experience than that offered by the astonishing Guggenheim Gallery, the Museo de Bellas Artes in the Plaza Museo fits the bill admirably with some valuable works on display behind an unassuming façade. The museum's impressive collection spans art from the 12th to 20th centuries, highlights being some excellent Flemish works from between the 15th and 17th centuries. There are also works by El Greco, Goya, Gauguin, Francis Bacon, Picasso and Velazquez. To the rear of the building is a sculpture garden.
Getting There:
Metro to Moyúa station; or bus 1, 10, 13 and 18 to
Museum Plaza
Opening Times:
Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm
Admission:
EUR5.50 (adults), free for children under 12
Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao
Locals in Bilbao are divided on whether it is a 'beauty or a beast', but the bizarre multi-million dollar Guggenheim Museum, opened in 1997, has brought thousands of visitors flocking to the city to be awed or floored. The massive museum, designed by Frank Gehry, has no right angles and resembles a metallic flower clad in shiny titanium, and is sited in the former dockyard alongside the Nervion River. Inside, apart from breathtaking spaces, the museum houses the works of some important 20th century artists, including Picasso, Robert Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol, Willem de Koonig and Clyfford Still. There are also sections displaying the work of young Basque and Spanish artists, and rotating exhibits lent by the Guggenheim museums in New York and Venice.
Getting There:
Metro to Moyua station; streetcar to Guggenheim stop; a
variety of buses also service the museum
Opening Times:
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 8pm (open on
Mondays between July and August)
Admission:
EUR9, and an extra EUR2 for an audioguide.
Santillana del Mar, Bilbao
French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre called Santillana del Mar "the prettiest village in Spain" - and to this day, it remains one of the undisputed highlights of Spain's northern coastline. Santillana del Mar is tiny - only six blocks long, and home to just 4,000 permanent inhabitants - and makes a wonderful base for exploring the alluring Cantabrian coastline. In the village, which is full of gorgeous Romanesque architecture lining ironstone streets, locals still sell fresh milk from open stable doors, and well-heeled visitors have the chance to spend the night in one of Spain's grandest paradores(the Parador de Santillana), a converted 17th century mansion offering luxurious and unforgettable accommodation. Santillana del Mar is also the closest urban area to the Cuevas de Altamira(Altamira Caves), featuring amazing Upper Paleolithic cave paintings, and often dubbed 'the Sistine Chapel of prehistoric art'. Because Spain's northern coastline doesn't see nearly as much annual tourist activity as its southern coastline, independent travellers keen to avoid the crush of sun-seekers on the Costa del Sol are strongly encouraged to visit Santillana del Mar, which offers a relaxing seaside atmosphere as well as the chance to feel as though you've truly 'escaped' the hustle and bustle of the modern world.
Pamplona, Bilbao
Hordes of tourists flock to this town in Navarre, Northern Spain, in early July each year for the Running of the Bulls, officially La Fiesta del Fermin. The festival, in honour of the city's patron saint, was made famous by Ernest Hemingway's novel 'The Sun Also Rises', and it has become Spain's most popular attraction. A bust of Hemingway stands outside Pamplona's bullring, where the 8-day extravaganza of dancing, dashing through the streets ahead of rampaging bulls, and drinking, begins. The practice of driving bulls through the centre of Pamplona started in the 19th century as the most practical way to get them to the ring, and for many years the city authorities tried to prevent the practice of running with the bulls. Aside from the festival, though, Pamplona is worth a visit any time of year, boasting lush parks, a splendid Gothic cathedral, a huge citadel and a quaint old quarter. Pamplona is the capital of the province of Navarre, but its roots are Basque and a large section of its population are Basque nationalists.
Vitoria-Gasteiz, Bilbao
British visitors are reassured by the presence of a statue of Wellington, the 'Iron Duke', standing on the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca in the city of Vitoria-Gasteiz, 41 miles (66km) south of Bilbao. The statue commemorates Wellington's victory in battle here against Napoleon's forces. The main reason for visiting this Basque city, however, is to enjoy the impressive new contemporary art museum, and soak up some of the charm of this green urban enclave, packed with avenues and parks. There is also an old quarter, full of Renaissance palaces, most of which are now art galleries and museums. The city also has two Gothic cathedrals, one dating from the 12th century and one, modern but designed in Gothic style, still under construction.
San Sebastian, Bilbao
The Basque region's most popular beach, La Concha, is to be found in the genteel resort city of San Sebastian, 62 miles (100km) east of Bilbao. The town became fashionable as a summer getaway during the reign of Queen Isabel when she took to holidaying there in 1845. Today the town hums with boutiques, surf-shops and nightclubs, but the elaborate boardwalk and grandiose historic mansions lend an air of sophistication. For a spectacular view of the sea and countryside, ride the funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo, or opt for the opposite side of the bay where it is possible to stroll through shady woods to the summit of Monte Urgull, topped with a statue of Jesus blessing the city. The town's Museo de San Telmo, housed in a Dominican monastery, displays some interesting prehistoric Basque artefacts, and a few dinosaur skeletons. The house where Victor Hugo once lived is in the nearby charming fishing village of Pasajes de San Juan, which can be reached by ferry from San Sebastian.
Events
O Grove Seafood Festival
Come October, the north-western province of Spain grows (as does its reputation) into the place to be for seafood in Europe. Hundreds of thousands come by to enjoy the succulent flavours and delights available.
Date:
October 2012 TBA
Venue:
O Grove Town Hall, Galicia
San Fermin (Running of the Bulls)
The annual festival honouring Saint Fermin is most famous for its Running of the Bulls, which takes place every morning throughout the celebrations. Ernest Hemmingway brought the festival to world attention with his novel The Sun Also Rises, and millions of brave visitors have since ventured to join in the all-day-and-night merriment.
Date:
6 - 14 July 2012
Venue:
The town of Pamplona in the north-eastern part of the
country
Restaurants
Etxanobe
Clean white linen tablecloths juxtaposed by the colourful and almost garish artwork on one of the walls creates a somewhat classic meets contemporary feel to this popular Bilbao eatery. Run by owner and chef, Fernando Canales, Etxanobe is located on the top floor of the Palacio Euskalduna and delivers innovative and intelligent dishes that tantalise and haunt the taste buds. Try the boneless suckling lamb with sweetbread or the Muscavado pudding with cinnamon and rice. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Bookings recommended.
Address:
Avda Abandoibarra, 4
Aretxondo Restaurant
Located in a quaint and charming country house just outside the city centre, Bilbao's Aretxondo Restaurant has a unique and distinctive character with modern and inventive twists on traditional cuisine. A popular venue for events, weddings and other special occasions, it boasts and extensive wine list, knowledgeable waiters simply heavenly food. Try the sautéed prawns with potato guacamole, tomato and condensed grapefruit, or the log on entrecote in fine herbs and black pepper, and end off with the mango cheesecake with mango ice cream and spices - deliciously light and decadent! Open daily for dinner, lunch on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Mondays, the first two weeks in January, Easter week and the first two weeks in August.
Address:
Bº Elexalde, 20. (Galdakao)
Restaurante À Table
This stylish restaurant, located in Bilbao's Old Quarter, specialising in unique and innovative union between classic Basque and French cuisine is warm and cosy with interesting and quirky artwork adorning the walls. With an elegant wine list encompassing local Basque and Spanish wines as well as French imports, diners can sip on the region's finest harvest while sampling sumptuous French dishes like duck breast filled with foie-gras and frogs legs with Dijon mustard before diving into the veal tripe Biscayne style. Reservations recommended. Open Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed the first two weeks of August.
Address:
Dos de Mayo 18
Guggenheim Restaurant
The Guggenheim Restaurant is located inside the world-class Guggenheim Museum, and it prides itself on being one of the city's very best eateries. Serving traditional Basque cuisine using the freshest local produce, diners can enjoy innovative dishes that have been expertly prepared by chef Josean Martínez, such as the mouth-watering perfumed 'euskal oiloa' chicken (Basque breed organic chicken) with rosemary and lime leaves, or the decadent pure chocolate with coffee ice cream and a hot marzipan sand. Bookings recommended. Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and Wednesday to Saturday for dinner.
Address:
Avda. Abandoibarra 2
Zortziko
The Michelin-starred Zortziko boasts a formal atmosphere and an air of grandeur and is, deservedly, one of Bilbao's finest eateries. Three distinctive and classy dining rooms, each with its own theme creates the ultimate sophisticated yet contemporary dining experience. Try the Bisket of rock fish or the Fricadellede chicken with pistachios, and for those with a sweet tooth, the chocolate sponge, Malden salt and oil Hojiblanca is pure indulgence. Reservations recommended. Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday and Mondays and the second fortnight in August and the first two weeks in September.
Address:
Calle Alameda Mazarredo, 17



