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Prague Travel Guide

Travel Guides: Prague

General Information

Prague

The Czech Republic's capital and international showpiece, Prague is one of the most popular destinations in Eastern Europe. Its attraction lies in the physical beauty of the city with 600 years of architecture amazingly untouched by war. The centre has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it demands to be explored on foot, an entire outdoor museum of history and a haphazard mixture of splendid architecture.

In the 14th century Prague enjoyed a reputation of being one of the most important cities in Europe, but after the Second World War it disappeared completely behind the Iron Curtain. Since the 1989 Velvet Revolution and the end of Communism, Prague has thrown off the years of repression with alacrity and is returning to its earlier grandeur, enticing tourists with its fairytale quality and romantic atmosphere. In recent years Prague has also become a popular weekend destination for stag and hen party groups, attracted by the lively nightlife, world-famous beer and low prices.

The historical centre of the city is compact and its attractions are all within easy reach. The core comprises the Castle District (Hradèany) west of the River Vltava, and the Old and New town (Staré Mesto and Nové Mesto) to the east, joined by the famous Charles Bridge. The Castle District situated on the hill overlooking the city incorporates the main attractions, including the Castle itself and the Cathedral. The Old Town is a maze of alleyways, cobbled streets and passages winding their way towards the beautiful Old Town Square, Staromestské Námestí. Josefov Ghetto, the old Jewish Quarter, is enclosed within the old town. The New Town, in contrast, is modern and has been laid out in wide boulevards, most famously Wenceslas Square, the fashionable shopping boulevard leading up to the foot of the grand National Gallery.

The city's cultural scene also features high on the list of things to do in Prague, with classical music concerts, opera and ballet, as well as the many art galleries around the city. It is constantly adding small new museums to its summertime list, often strange but curiously interesting. This beautiful city, a 'symphony in stone', built along the river and on the surrounding hills, has never ceased to capture the hearts and imagination of visitors, painters, photographers and poets.

Getting Around

Prague has a cheap and efficient public transport system consisting of an integrated network of buses, trams, metro and a funicular on Petrin Hill. The historic centre is compact and pedestrian-only, but trams offer an inexpensive way of seeing the rest of the city and there are plenty of metro stations in the centre. Tram lines criss-cross the centre and are the best way to get around, after the metro. Buses need rarely be used, as they tend to operate outside the centre and are more irregular. After midnight night trams and buses offer a limited service, usually every hour. Tickets are valid on all modes of public transport, but must be bought in advance and validated before each journey. A number of travel passes are also available; these are the best way to avoid the hassle of different single tickets and need only be stamped once at the start. Prague is inundated with dishonest, unregistered taxi drivers who attempt to rip off tourists. It's best to book taxis over the phone and demand a receipt for the fare before setting out. ProfiTaxi or AAA Taxi are the most reputable companies. A car is unnecessary since much of the city is pedestrianised, parking is a major problem and vehicle crime is rife. Car rental is also expensive.

Activites

The Castle District (Hradèany),Prague
The Castle District stretches across the top of the hill overlooking the city and incorporates the best churches and museums in Prague set around three courtyards, immaculate gardens, fortifications and state apartments. The dominant feature is St Vitus Cathedral occupying most of the third courtyard. The Castle was founded in the 9th century and is still the official residence of the president. The Old Royal Palace was home to the Kings of Bohemia from the 11th to the 17th centuries. The Royal Apartments and Vladislav Hall, where Bohemian knights once jousted, kings were throned and presidents are sworn into office, can be visited, as well as the little chapel next door. Next to the red façade of the Romanesque Basilica of St George, lies the Benedictine Convent, housing the National Gallery's remarkable collection of old Bohemian art. Behind the gallery is the picturesque cobbled alley known as Golden Lane, a row of 16th-century tradesmen's cottages, brightly coloured and built into the fortifications. Visitors can watch the Changing of the Guard on the hour every hour, with the fanfare and flag ceremony included at noon.

Admission:
Full ticket: 350 Kc (adults), 175 Kc (concessions); includes the Old Royal Palace, the permanent exhibition, the Basilica of St George, Convent of St George - National Gallery and the Golden Lane/Daliborka Tower. Individual tickets also available

Opening time:
Interiors daily 9am to 6pm (4pm in winter). Castle grounds daily 5am to midnight (April to October) and 6am to 11pm (November to March). Gardens closed in winter. The changing of the guards ceremony takes place every hour, but the flag ceremony is only at 12pm

St Vitus Cathedral,Prague
Situated within the Castle Complex, the spires of St Vitus Cathedral, an elegant but domineering French Gothic structure, soar above the ramparts. It is the county's largest church containing numerous side chapels, frescoes, tombstones and beautiful stained glass windows and it literally sparkles with all the finery inside. The most ornate chapel contains the tomb of St Wenceslas, the 'Good King Wenceslas' of the Christmas carol, which has become something of a pilgrimage site. The Coronation Chamber houses the Bohemian Crown Jewels and the Crypt is where most of the Kings and Queens of Bohemia have their final place of rest. The southern entrance to the cathedral, the Golden Gate, is decorated with a richly gilded coloured mosaic representing the Last Judgement, dated from 1370, and it is one of the artistic treasures found in the Castle District. It is possible to climb the 287 steps of the tower for magnificent views over the city.

Admission:
Entrance is free. A ticket for the crypt and main altar is 100 Kc

Opening time:
Daily 9am to 5pm (April to October), 9am to 4pm (November to March)

Charles Bridge (Karluv Most),Prague
The pedestrian Charles Bridge serves as the focal point for tourists and is the most photographed feature of the city. Construction began in 1357 replacing the earlier Judith Bridge of which the only remaining part is one of the towers at the Malá Strana gate that can be climbed for a view of the city. Up until 1841 this was the only bridge in the city. Throngs of people pick their way through the happy congestion caused by buskers, artists and musicians lining the bridge, positioned between the saintly sandstone statues that make this the most picturesque and lively of attractions.

Old Town Square (Staromstské Námestí),Prague
The heart of the old city and the market place since the 11th century, the Old Town Square is Prague's prettiest and most lively square with historical facades and a cobbled surface. It still hosts a variety of markets, especially the yearly Christmas market which is enchanting. In the centre is the odd Art Nouveau monument to the religious reformer, Jan Hus, a national symbol for the Czech people. The Old Town Hall features an ornate Gothic Astronomical clock showing three different times, in front of which throngs of people gather on the hour to watch the brief mechanical performance of apostles, Christ, a skeleton and a rooster. Tourists can climb the tower for a behind the scenes look at the mechanics as well as a view from the top. On opposite sides of the square are two magnificent churches: Prague's greatest Baroque building, St Nicholas, with its distinctly visible dome, and the more striking Týn Church, a fabulous Gothic structure with its twin spires a noticeable feature on the Prague skyline.

Admission:
Town Hall tour 50 Kc, concessions available

Opening time:
Town Hall tower open Monday 11am to 6pm; Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 6pm, closing an hour earlier in winter

The Jewish Museum,Prague
The Jewish Museum is the largest and most authentic of its kind in Central Europe with one of the most extensive collections of Judaic art in the world. Situated in the old Jewish Quarter, exhibitions are spread over a variety of buildings and synagogues, including the Maisel, Spanish, Klausen and Pinkas Synagogues, the Ceremonial Hall, the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Robert Guttmann Gallery and the Education and Culture Centre. The origins of the collection are astonishing in their atrociousness. Objects from 153 Jewish communities throughout Bohemia and Moravia were brought to Prague by the Nazis in 1942, to be used in a planned 'museum of an extinct people' after their extermination programme was complete. The Pinkas Synagogue was turned into a Jewish memorial after the Second World War and its walls are covered with the names of the Czech victims, the communities they belonged to and the camps in which they perished. The Old Jewish Cemetery is a significant sight with over 12,000 tombstones visible, but the number of people buried here is much greater due to the earth layering system carried out to create space. The oldest tombstone dates back to 1439. Together with the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest surviving example of the medieval twin nave style, the cemetery is one of the most important historic sites in the Jewish Quarter.

Admission:
290 Kc (adults), 190 Kc (children 6-15). Robert Guttmann Gallery 30 Kc; Jewish cemetery 20 Kc

Opening time:
Daily except Saturday from 9am to 6pm (April to October), 9am to 4.30pm (November to March). Jewish Cemetery opens Tuesday to Thursday 9am to 1pm

Vyšehrad,Prague
Vyaehrad, a hill fort perched on a rock above the river, is an inseparable part of the city skyline. The twin spires of the Neo-Gothic Saints Peter and Paul Church are visible from afar and the façade has beautiful carvings. No other site has as much distinction attached to it. Behind the church is the Slavin Cemetery where many distinguished Czech artists, scientists and academics are buried. From the battlements the view of the Vltava valley is superb.

Admission:
Vysehrad Gallery: 10 Kc; the Brick Gate: 10 Kc; Casemate: 30 Kc. Concessions available. Entrance to the grounds is free

Opening time:
Daily 9.30am to 6pm (April to October), 9.30am to 5pm (November to March)

Ceský Krumlov,Prague
This small medieval town in Southern Bohemia is one of the most picturesque in the country, nestled in the S-bend of the River Vltava and dominated by the fairytale Chateau on the ridge overlooking the town. Its appearance has remained unchanged since the 18th century and it is a delight to wander through the traffic-free old town with its cobbled lanes, ramshackle red-tiled roofs and lopsided colourful houses providing many picture postcard opportunities. The Castle on the hill, greatly enriched by the Italian Renaissance style, has fine views of the town setting with covered walkways, courtyards and terraced gardens where theatre and music productions are held. Since the town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, the summer months have become somewhat crowded. It is no longer a sleepy secret but a buzzing tourist haven.

Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad),Prague
The town of Karlovy Vary, also known as Karlsbad, is the Queen of the Czech republic's many spa resort towns. It is a pretty Victorian place with elegant boulevards, elaborate colonnades and brightly coloured buildings lining the picturesque river valley, and the surrounding forested hillsides are a peaceful and therapeutic place in which to walk. The main focus of the town is health, and at the centre of attention are the 12 hot springs containing a mineral content rich in restorative and healing properties. The mineral drinking fountains in the colonnades were once the haunt of the European aristocracy, and today the local people gather to fill their quaint little drinking cups, sipping and strolling in the fresh air, encouraging the water to work its magic on their digestive tracts or metabolic disorders. If that doesn't work the locally made Becherovka liqueur is hailed as the 13th spring. Although most of the spa pools and sanatoriums are reserved for people undergoing treatment, visitors can still swim in the heated pool above the Thermal Sanatorium. There is plenty of excellent accommodation, unique souvenirs from the area and a myriad of relaxing opportunities to be found.

Kutna Hora,Prague
In the 14th century Kutna Hora was the second biggest town in Bohemia after Prague due to the discovery of silver. Today visitors come to appreciate the history of a once booming town where the Royal Mint was founded, and to marvel at the architecture of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its greatest monument is the exquisite church of Santa Barbara, built to rival Prague's St Vitus Cathedral, a pinnacled Gothic achievement financed by the miners and dedicated to their patron saint Barbara. Among the town's many churches and attractions is the Hrádek Mining Museum, popular for its medieval mineshaft tours. The bizarre but fascinating Gothic ossuary, decorated with the bones of about 40,000 people and arranged into shapes, notably chandeliers, a coat of arms and pyramids, is a macabre attraction.

Museum of Communism (Muzeum komunismu),Prague
Ironically located next door to a casino and above a McDonald's, the Museum of Communism is dedicated to presenting an account of the post World War II Communist regime in Czechoslovakia and Prague in particular. It offers an eye-opening look at life behind the Iron Curtain and leading visitors through the life of the Czech people during the times of the Soviet Union. With genuine artefacts on display, informative text, multimedia presentations and even a reconstructed classroom, the museum makes sure the memory is kept alive of what it brands 'Communism - the Dream, the Reality, and the Nightmare'.

Admission:
Adults: CZK180; Concessions available

Opening time:
Daily from 9am – 9pm including holidays, except 24 December

Prague Astronomical Clock,Prague
This medieval astronomical clock, also known as the Prague Orloj, is mounted on the southern wall of the Old Town City Hall and is popular with tourists eager to watch the clock's show every hour. It comprises three main components, namely the astronomical dial, which represents the position of the sun and the moon in the sky, 'The Walk of the Apostles' showing moving sculptures, and a calendar dial with medallions representing the 12 months. The show begins with Death, represented by a skeleton, pulling the bell cord with one hand while holding a Clessidra (hourglass) in the other. The Apostles then come out of the windows in a procession and return back inside. Once the windows close, a cockerel flaps and crows in an alcove followed by the chimes of the hour. The parody is accompanied by the Turk shaking his head, the Miser watching his bag and Vanity admiring himself in a mirror and makes a wonderful spectacle for visitors to Prague.

Miluniæ and Gehry's Dancing House,Prague
This unique building is so famous it even had a coin issued with its likeness printed on it, celebrating ten years of architecture in the Czech Republic. Designed by Croatian-born Czech architect Vlado Miluniæ together with Canadian architect Frank Gehry, it was orginally named `Fred and Ginger`, reflecting a woman and man (Ginger Rogers and Fred Astair) dancing together. The building was designed in 1992 and completed in 1996.Construction is from 99 concrete panels each of different shape and dimension, each therefore requiring a unique wooden form.

Petrin Observation Tower,Prague
A small version of Paris's Eiffel Tower, the Petrin Observation Tower may not sound tall at 197 feet tall (60 metres) but don't forget that it stands aloft Petrin Hill overlooking the whole of Prague. With breathtaking views, it is well worth the climb of 299 steps and on a clear day it is possible to see Snezka, the highest peak in the Czech Republic.

Opening time:
January -March: Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm; April: daily 10am – 7pm; May to September: daily 10am to 10pm; October: daily 10am to 6pm; November to December: Weekends and Christmas holidays 10am to 5pm

Events

Prague Spring International Music Festival,Prague
Prague Spring has become one of the most prestigious classical music festivals in Europe, presenting exceptional artists, orchestras and chamber music ensembles of international acclaim. Every year the festival is traditionally opened and closed by the Prague Symphony Orchestra. The festival also remembers important anniversaries in the music world by including works by the composers concerned.

Date: May/June 2009
Venue: Various

Prague Autumn Festival,Prague
This international festival of classical music ends the European summer music festival season and has gained renown for its programme of celebrated musicians.

Date: 12 September to 1 October 2009
Venue: Prague State Opera Municipal House Rudolfinum

Christmas Markets,Prague
Christmas in Prague is a delightful season made special by the traditional Christmas markets that sparkle with lights and colourful decorations, that resound with Christmas music and smell of hot mulled wine, sausages and gingerbread. Brightly decorated wooden huts sell Czech handicrafts such as puppets, candles, wooden toys and jewellery, alongside traditional food and drinks. In Old Town Square, local and international choirs and musical ensembles sing Christmas songs, and a wooden stable recreates the Bethlehem manger scene with live animals. Other festive attractions include an open-air ice rink and the enormous Christmas tree ablaze with colourful lights.

Date: 29 November 2008 to 1 January 2009
Venue: Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square

Restaurants

Bellevue,Prague
Visitors who enjoy the finer things in life will revel in Prague's premier restaurant, the Bellevue. Every dish on the menu is a masterpiece of modern Czech cuisine, which can be enjoyed together with a stunning view of Prague's castle and piano playing in the classically elegant surroundings. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations are recommended.

Location: Smetanova nábrezi 18, Stare Mesto

Francouzská Restaurant Municipal House,Prague
The beauty of the French Restaurant inside the famous art nouveau Municipal House building will take your breath away with the light of ten crystal chandeliers shimmering in the mirrors and embellishing the wall panelling. Although the name suggests French cuisine, the fare includes international and Czech specialities as good as the décor. A dazzling dining experience is guaranteed.

Location: Námìstí Republiky 5

Dolly Bell,Prague
A topsy-turvy atmosphere has made this surreal establishment, which serves up excellent Slav fare, into one of Prague's most popular dining venues. The cluttered dining room has furniture nailed (upside-down) to the ceiling. The unusual décor does not detract from the extensive selection of well-prepared dishes on offer, like Balkan moussaka, tasty stews and soups, meat skewered on a spit, and delicious pork sausage. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Reservations recommended.

Location: Neklanova 20, Nove Mesto

U Fleku,Prague
The world's oldest pub and brewery and Prague's most famous tavern, U Fleku has been in the heart of Prague for 500 years and offers the chance to soak up some history along with the tasty brew and hearty Czech meals on offer. Tours of the brewery are available, and there is often cabaret entertainment. Those wanting to dine should make a reservation. Recommended are the house goulash and beer-flavoured cheese on toast. Open daily from 9am to 11pm.

Location: Kremencova 11

Buffalo Bill's,Prague
Even in Eastern Europe it is easy to eat western, and Prague's premiere place to indulge in some authentic Tex-Mex cuisine in a fun Wild West atmosphere is Buffalo Bill's cellar cantina near Wenceslas Square. The fact that it is always full testifies to the success of the food and atmosphere, which is enhanced with country music and American cowboy memorabilia. Margaritas top the house cocktail list, and burritos, tacos and fajitas abound. Open daily from 12pm to midnight.

Location: Vodickova 9, Stare Mesto

King Solomon Strictly Kosher Restaurant,Prague
One of Prague's only truly Kosher restaurants, King Solomon runs under the supervision of the Orthodox Council of Kaschrus with dining hours that strictly adhere to the Sabbath. With 12 booths huddled under an industrial-looking atrium, this restaurant is not big on ambience, but the authentic Kosher food is a must. Diners can choose from a variety of fresh vegetable and meat dishes such as vegetable béchamel and stuffed roast quail. Selections of Israeli, American, and Moravian kosher wines are on offer and the restaurant prides itself on a Frankovka red from the Aaron Günsberger Moravian cellars in Rakvice. Open Sunday to Thursday for lunch and dinner. Friday dinners and Saturday lunch by arrangement only. Bookings advisable.

Location: Siroká 8

La Provence,Prague
This French country cellar-cum-urban kitsch eatery is popular with locals and, despite its crowded and cramped atmosphere diners are still able to have conversations without too much eavesdropping. Dishes include an array of French Provençal dishes and other favourites such as escargots, Caesar and Niçoise salads and some of the spiciest scampi in Prague. Upstairs, the Parisian Brasserie offers traditional French classics. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Bookings recommended.

Location: Stupartská 9

Red Hot & Blues,Prague
The casual French Quarter vibe of this restaurant makes it a wonderful choice for a relaxed meal and while you won't find Cajun crawfish on the menu here, the spicy Cajun shrimp is impressive and packs a powerful punch. Lovers of all things American, the menu includes favourite Tex Mex dishes like burgers, tortillas, tangy huevos rancheros and nachos. A live jazz band lends itself to the Blues feel of the restaurant and can be hear every night from 7.30 - 10pm. Open Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner and Saturday and Sunday brunch from 9am-4pm. Reservations advisable.

Location: Jakubská 12

Reykjavik,Prague
Located just off Charles Bridge, Reykjavik is a wonderfully trendy eatery with a distinct brasserie atmosphere, lots of wood, and an outdoor platform where diners can sit outside in the summertime and watch the world go by. The menu features plenty of Icelandic salmon and steaks from the North country. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations advisable.

Location: Karlova 20

La Degustation,Prague
Located in the Old Town quarter, this is arguably one of Prague's best eateries. The dining room is minimalistic yet three different seven-course meals await you with the onus on diners sampling both food and wine. The Boheme Bourgoisie menu provides a spin on classic European food, while the Boheme Traditionnelle draws inspiration from old Czech cookbooks and raises the bar on the level of classic Czech cuisine. It is a bit pricey, but well worth it! Open Monday to Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sundays. Reservations essential.

Location: Hastalská 18