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Copenhagen Travel Guide

Travel Guides: Copenhagen

General Information

Copenhagen

The waterside city of Copenhagen is packed with old-world fairytale charm alongside some of the world's most avante garde architecture. It is a vibrant, modern city with a long and fascinating history, having been the capital of Denmark for close on 600 years and home to the oldest resident monarchy in the world.

The biggest city in Scandinavia, Copenhagen occupies a pleasant and strategic spot on the Baltic east coast of Denmark's largest island, Zealand, its harbour overlooked by the world-famous statue of the 'Little Mermaid'.

One of the first impressions that strike visitors to this busy, dynamic capital is the cleanliness and orderliness that prevails in its narrow medieval cobbled central city streets and along the picturesque canals in Christianshavn. Most of the myriad attractions for visitors are situated within about one square mile (3 sq km) of flat terrain in the centre, making it easy to explore on foot (or bicycle, which is the vehicle of choice for locals).

Five streets in the heart of the city have been merged to provide the world's longest pedestrian mall, running between Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, which are packed with historic gabled buildings, dynamic department stores, stunning shops, restaurants, pavement cafes, theatres, and world-class museums and galleries.

Despite the condensed city centre, Copenhagen is not short on green lungs: parks such as the ever-popular Tivoli Gardens abound in this city, which prides itself on its strict anti-pollution laws and lack of glass and chrome skyscrapers.

The family-friendly city that spawned Hans Christian Andersen is, indeed, a modern fairy-tale: one of Europe's finest capitals that retains a provincial charm and sense of history along with its cutting-edge efficiency, offering its justifiably proud citizens an extremely high standard of living.

Getting Around

Copenhagen's public transport is exceptionally safe, reliable, clean and inexpensive. The Metro, buses and trains in the city and surrounds operate on a one-fare system, where tickets are valid for all three types of transport with no extra cost for transfer. Services are frequent between 5am and 12.30am, with several night buses operating from the City Hall Square to the suburbs in between. On Friday and Saturday the Metro runs all night. The Metro runs from Vanløse Station to Lergravsparken in East Amager, to Ørestad in West Amager and to Frederiksberg. Buses are yellow and bus stop clearly marked with matching yellow signs. Tourists are advised to obtain the 'Copenhagen Card', which offers free transport and free entry to most major attractions in the city. A favourite mode of transport for locals and visitors is the bicycle, and Copenhagen has cycle paths and routes along all major streets. Free bicycles are provided between May and September in a series of Bike Parks where it is possible to deposit a coin, obtain the use of a bicycle, drop it off at another park later and retrieve the deposit. For good quality bike-rentals, visit Baisikeli bicycle shop in Tursensgade; a benevolent company using the proceeds to benefit the poor in Africa, shipping second-hand bikes overseas regularly. So, roam the streets on a rented bike feeling inspired, energised and kind. Copenhagen is well supplied with licensed taxis, operated by five different companies. Taxis display a lighted sign when they are for hire, and can be flagged down anywhere. Cycle taxis, similar to the rickshaws operating in the Far East, have also been introduced and are popular with visitors. Traffic is usually congested in the city centre and a car can be a liability rather than an asset. The city has a complicated colour-coded zone pay parking system in operation during business hours.

Activites

Tivoli Gardens,Copenhagen
Copenhagen's world-renowned Tivoli Gardens are ever so much more than just a central city park. The relatively small area in the heart of the city is actually one of the world's most thrilling entertainment complexes, drawing about three million visitors during its five-month summer open season each year. Tivoli dates back to 1843 when Copenhagen was still a fortified city surrounded by tall ramparts and a deep moat. Today the Tivoli Lake is all that remains of the moat, which now reflects the incredible trademark fireworks displays that light the sky over the gardens twice a week. Tivoli is split in two, one section housing the beautiful miniature gardens where more than 100,000 flowers bloom, and the other the theme park with game arcades and thrill rides. Tivoli also boasts a concert hall and open-air stages where dozens of concerts, pantomimes and circus shows, many of them free, are offered during the season.

Admission:
General Admission: kr 85 (adults); kr 45 (children 3-11 years), multi-ride tickets are kr 200 (adults), kr 160 (children). Season passes and concessions available

Opening time:
Open daily at 11am; closing times vary according to season, but usually between 11pm and 12am. See website for details

Historical Museums,Copenhagen
The rich history of Denmark, from Viking days through to the Second World War resistance movement, is encapsulated in fascinating collections of artefacts housed in a series of museums in and around Copenhagen. The Prince's Palace in the city centre houses the National Museum (www.natmus.dk) covering Danish history in general and a collection of international antiquities. The open air museum a few miles north of the city makes for a fascinating excursion with its 100 or so buildings, most relocated from elsewhere in the country, set out to illustrate what life was like in rural Denmark in days of yore. Visitors can get up to date on the history of the city itself in the Copenhagen City Museum (www.bymuseum.dk), housed in the Royal Shooting Society's palace dating from 1787.

Admission:
Copenhagen City Museum: kr 20 (adults), children under 18 free; Fridays free for all. National Museum: Free. Open Air Museum: kr 25

Opening time:
Copenhagen City Museum: Daily except Tuesdays 10am to 4pm, until 9pm on Wednesdays. National Museum: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm. Open Air Museum: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm (3 April and 30 September). Rest of the year Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm (until 9pm on Thursdays throughout July)

Art Galleries,Copenhagen
Copenhagen is a city with a proud heritage of art and design, well showcased in numerous museums and galleries as well as architecture. Among the most renowned collections are those housed in the popular Museum of Decorative Arts (traces the history of Danish design www.kunstindustrimuseet.dk), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (featuring world famous artists www.louisiana.dk), the National Gallery (more than 8,000 works dating from the 13th century to modern times www.smk.dk/smk.nsf/docs/splash) and the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (antiquities, French impressionists and contemporary Danish art www.glyptoteket.dk).

Admission:
Museum of Decorative Arts: kr 50 (adults). Louisiana Museum of Modern art: kr 80 (adults), under 18s free. National Gallery: Free admission, charge for special exhibits. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek: kr 50 (adults), under 18s free. Concessions available

Opening time:
Museum of Decorative Arts: Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 5pm. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art: Daily 10am to 5pm, until 10pm on Wednesdays. National Gallery: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm, until 8pm on Wednesdays. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm

Nyhavn Canal,Copenhagen
The picturesque historic Nyhavn Canal, dating from 1673 when it was built to connect the inner city to the sea, is today colloquially known as the 'longest bar in Scandinavia'. This is because the pretty pastel-painted old townhouses that line the canal are fronted with numerous restaurants, pubs and cafes, full of action and entertainment 24 hours a day. The canal itself is crammed with old wooden sailing ships, adding to the atmosphere. Tourists enjoy not only the hospitality establishments along the canal but also visit the house at No.20 Nyhavn, home of famous fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen, who wrote his first stories here between 1834 and 1838. Andersen later occupied two other houses in Nyhavn.

Rosenborg Castle,Copenhagen
The attractive Dutch Renaissance style Rosenborg Castle was designed by King Christian IV and served as his home until he died in 1648. Today the Castle is an important cultural institution, acting as a public museum detailing the history of Denmark's royal family as well as acting as repository for the Crown Jewels and royal regalia, which are kept in the castle cellars and can be viewed by the public. The magnificent castle gardens are a welcome retreat from the city hustle and bustle.

Admission:
Entry to the gardens is free. The castle: kr 65 (adults); children under 17 free; kr 40 (concessions). Photos kr 20

Opening time:
Open daily from 10am to 4pm/5pm during the summer season, and from 11am to 3pm during the winter months. Closed 17-26 December. Times can vary month to month, however, so consult website for details

Freetown Christiania,Copenhagen
Freetown Christiania is a partially self-governing neighbourhood in the borough of Christianshavn, Copenhagen, dominated largely by a freethinking 'hippy' culture. Local rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests and hard drugs. Aside from its cannabis smoking affinity, Christiana is also well known for its inhabitants' love of meditation and yoga, and abroad it is celebrated as a showcase of the progressive and liberated Danish lifestyle. Christiania is considered a 'Losers' Paradise' for the creative and recreational values widely practised in the area. However, visitors can enjoy the neighbourhood's peaceful green environment and its magical combination of village and metropolitan life.

The Little Mermaid,Copenhagen
The Little Mermaid, basking on a rock at the Langelinie harbour, is one of Denmark's biggest tourist attractions. The sculpture was put up in 1913, and over a million people visit the mermaid every year. At only about 4 feet (1.25m) high, she is very small, with naked breasts and a fish tail; she seems to be in her true element when the waves crash against her rock. The sculptor, Edvard Eriksen, modelled the mermaid's head after ballerina Ellen Price. When the ballerina wouldn't model in the nude for the body, the sculptor's wife posed for him. There are some similarities between the Little Mermaid and the 'Pania of the Reef' statue on the Napier beachfront in New Zealand, and with Vancouver's 'Girl in a Wetsuit' sculpture.

Christiansborg Palace,Copenhagen
When sightseeing in Denmark, the Christiansborg Palace is an architecture or history lover's dream, and a winter snowfall adds to its romantically royal appearance. This is further enhanced by the presence of ruins dating as far back as 1167 AD, when it existed as Absalon's Castle. The complex consists of several different buildings, centred by a neo-baroque core, and is home to important institutions; the Danish Parliament, the Prime Minister's Office and the Supreme Court. The royal family uses the palace church, the Royal Reception Rooms and the Riding Ground Complex. From the front steps of the main castle, there are also some stunning churches within easy viewing distance. This attraction embodies the essence of Danish history, architecture and royalty.

Admission:
Royal Reception Rooms, adults DKK65 and children DKK30; the Ruins, adults DKK40 and children DKK20.

Opening time:
Open daily (except Mondays form October to April), 10am to 4pm.

Legoland Billund,Copenhagen
Legoland Billund, the original Legoland Park, is a holiday must for children visiting Denmark. Opened in 1968, it plays host to numerous visitors from all over the world and is conveniently situated next to the original Lego factory. The features are divided into 'Worlds', including Denmark's iconic Miniland as well as Duplo Land, Imagination Zone, Legoredo Town, Adventure Land, Pirate Land, Lego City and the Knights' Kingdom. With a legendary selection of rides, shops and eateries, Legoland Billund has something to offer to everyone in the family, kids and folks alike!

Opening time:
Seasonal, open April to October.

Events

Roskilde Festival,Copenhagen
The hot and happening Roskilde Festival is one of Europe's greatest rock music feasts, featuring top international and local artists in a packed and varied programme. Names like Fat Boy Slim and Avril Levigne top the bill in a series of concerts across six stages that are complemented with numerous allied events and activities.

Date: 2-5 July 2009
Venue: 22 miles (35km) from Copenhagen

Cultural Harbour Festival,Copenhagen
Copenhagen's harbour comes alive with the annual cultural festival, four days crammed with dance, music, theatre, art and sports events both on the sea and ashore. Events include regattas, trampoline-diving, evening concerts by the water, workshops for children, a triathlon and much more.

Date: 7-9 August 2009
Venue: The main area for the Cultural Harbour festival is the Harbour Park at Islands Brygge; also Havneholmen and Kalvebod Brygge
Time: 2pm to 10pm (Friday) 12pm to 10pm (Saturday and Sunday)

Tivoli Christmas Market,Copenhagen
Copenhagen's magical amusement park, Tivoli, is not just a summer fun venue. For the past decade the park has opened for the Christmas season in an extremely festive guise to provide an unforgettable yuletide experience for hundreds of thousands of visitors, young and old. Not only are many of the park's famous rides open for business during the Christmas fun run, but there are the added attractions of thousands of fragrant Christmas trees, miles of fir garlands, candles and electric lights, a skating rink, elves everywhere, Santa Claus of course, and four Christmas market 'villages' where shoppers can find an array of presents in Nordic Village, Alp Village, Forest Troll Town or Old England. Several musical and theatrical productions are offered in the Park's indoor entertainment venues and restaurants serve up traditional Christmas fare.

Date: 14 November to 30 December 2008
Venue: Main entrance to Tivoli is at 3 Vesterbrogade
Time: 11am to 10pm

Restaurants

Ida Davidsen,Copenhagen
Denmark's undisputed speciality when it comes to the realms of gourmet food is the 'smørrebrød' (known to non-Danes as 'smorgasbord'). This consists of a selection of open sandwiches, served for lunch, usually made up of a variety of fish and seafood. The smorgasbord 'queen' in Copenhagen is Ida Davidsen, who is the fifth generation of her family to serve up this unique cuisine during the past 100 years. Ida can now claim to offer the longest smorgasbord menu in Denmark at six feet (2m) long! An example is the 'Victor Borge' sandwich, piled with salmon, freshly marinated lumpfish caviar, crayfish tails, Greenland shrimp, lime and dill mayonnaise. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm.

Location: Store Kongensgade 70

Den Sorte Ravn,Copenhagen
Nyhavn, alongside the canal connecting the harbour to the inner city, is the busiest dining district in Copenhagen, crammed with restaurants and cafes and frequented by thousands of tourists. One of the best restaurants in this area is the Den Sorte Ravn (The Black Raven), which serves up fine Danish cuisine with some classic French touches. Speciality of the house in this comfortable establishment, which has been operating for 28 years, is fillet of turbot prepared in puff pastry, with lobster salmon mousse and parsley, served with lobster sauce flavoured with cognac. The other items on the menu, particularly the fish dishes, are just as mouth-watering. Reservations are recommended. Open weekdays from 11.30am to 10.30pm.

Location: Nyhavn 14

Sankt Gertrud's Kloster,Copenhagen
Those who enjoy digesting some history along with their delectable dinner will enjoy experiencing Sankt Gertrud's Kloster, a medieval monastery dating back 700 years that now houses one of Copenhagen's most stylish international restaurants. Swallow oysters, followed by tenderloin lamb or rabbit ragout, and finish off with a selection of Danish cheeses, for example. The restaurant offers what it calls 'trilogy cuisine', endeavouring to include three different taste nuances in each dish. The atmosphere is warm and cosy, and the restaurant can cater for large groups in an intimate, candle-lit atmosphere. Reservations recommended. Open daily from 4pm.

Location: Hauser Plads 32

Café Sorgenfri,Copenhagen
Dining out in Copenhagen can be expensive, but for a good value traditional meal and a good time follow the local workers to their popular luncheon spot, the Café Sorgenfri. The simple 150-year old basement restaurant in the heart of the city's pedestrian precinct was originally a sailor's tavern and is still a very lively drinking hole after the kitchen closes. The Cafe's décor reflects old Copenhagen with its gilt-framed pictures, wrought-iron chandeliers and leather-panelled walls. At lunch time it is sought after for its excellent classic Smørrebrød (open sandwich) selection at reasonable prices, which provides the perfect midday meal washed down with a Carlsberg beer. Reservations recommended for groups of four or more. Opens 11am to 8pm.

Location: 8 Brolæggerstræde

Det Lille Apotek,Copenhagen
This cosy, traditional restaurant is reputedly the oldest eatery in Copenhagen, dating back to 1720. In days of yore it was an artist's meeting place and now features menu items named for Danish celebrities who used to dine here, like Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard. The restaurant has a nostalgic ambiance, enhanced by leaded windows, wood panelling and paraffin lamps. The food is traditional Danish at moderate prices. The house speciality is 'Stone Beef': diners get to cook their own piece of succulent beef tenderloin on a hot lava stone, served up with sauce, potato and mixed salad. There are several seafood dishes, delicious schnitzel and steaks on the menu. Reservations recommended, as this is a popular tourist restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Location: Store Kannikestræde 15

Ristorante Vesuvio,Copenhagen
Italian cuisine has become the international favourite and Copenhagen's copious list of restaurants would not be complete without an Italian gem. The Ristorante Vesuvio fits the bill, serving up a heart-warming 'Chef's Pasta Parade' of tasty options, and a selection of pizzas. The menu also features numerous Italian gourmet meat and fish dishes. Open daily from 12pm until late.

Location: Radhuspladsen 4

Promenaden in Tivoli,Copenhagen
There are several excellent gourmet restaurants in Copenhagen's famous Tivoli Gardens, but those who wish to grab a quick, affordable bite while enjoying the sights will be well satisfied at the bustling Promenaden in Tivoli 'multi-food-house'. The two-storey restaurant on Tivoli's main avenue has a view to the Garden's open-air stage, an international menu and vibey atmosphere. The premises include a bar and café, and there is live music at weekends. On offer are staples like barbecue spare ribs, steaks and pasta, or for a real budget snack head for the back corridor where there is a sausage bar and beef sandwich deli. The restaurant functions during the summer season only when Tivoli itself is open from 12pm to midnight.

Location: Vesterbrogade 3, Tivoli